Publications
Assessment of myofascial stiffness of flexor digitorum superficialis muscles in rock climbers
Authors: Piotr Kocur 1, Iga Piwinska 2, Magdalena Goliwas 1, Katarzyna Adamczewska 1
Affiliations:
- Department of Musculoskeletal Rehabilitation, Poznan University of Physical Education, Poznan, Poland.
- Faculty of Physiotherapy, Poznan University of Physical Education, Poznan, Poland
Journal: Acta of Bioengineering and Biomechanics - June 2021, Volume 23, Issue 2, Pages 23-31 (DOI: 10.37190/abb-01746-2020-01)
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Field & Applications:
- Sport
- Muscle development / Performance
- Fatigue / Overtraining
- Injury prevention
Purpose: Myofascial stiffness is the biomechanical property that can be considered as a modifiable risk factor injury of athletes. Moreover, the level of muscle stiffness can be crucial to assessment muscle adaptation to exercise. However, stiffness of flexor muscles in rock climbers has never been investigated. The purpose of this study was to evaluate the myofascial stiffness of the flexor digitorum superficialis (FDS) in the rock climbers.
Methods: The group of rock climbers (n = 16) has been compared to the non-climbers group (n = 16), matched in terms of anthropometric measures and an average level of physical fitness. Moreover, the impact of the one-time rock climbing training on FDS stiffness was assessed in the rock climbers group. The measurement of myotonometric myofascial stiffness of FDS muscles was performed, when the elbow was flexed and fully extended. In both positions, the measurements were taken with the hand open and closed.
Results: It has been shown that rock climber’s FDS muscle stiffness before training was significantly higher (from 15 to 20%) compared to non-climbers group. Moreover, after climbing myofascial stiffness of FDS muscles increased significantly from 25 to 40%.
Conclusions: Rock climbers have significantly higher stiffness of FDS muscles after rock climbing training. Moreover, the increased stiffness in the FDS differentiates rock climbers from the active and healthy control group. Results may indicate that decrease of muscle stiffness of FDS can be an important factor for the improvement of the climbing effectiveness and prevention of overload in the forearm flexor muscles and their recovery.
Keywords: stiffness, rock climbing, flexor digitorum superficialis
Rock climbers have significantly higher stiffness of FDS myofascial tissue after rock climbing training. Moreover, the increased stiffness in the FDS muscles differentiates rock climbers from active and healthy control group. Results may indicate muscle stiffness as an important risk factor of overuse injury in the wrist and forearm muscles and tendons in climbers. In addition, a decrease of FDS stiffness can improve the climbing effectiveness and optimize the recovery status of the most involved muscles during climbing. However, to draw clear conclusions future studies should include assessment stiffness of other forearm muscle and its asymmetry.